In the rugged mountains of Hsinchu county, nestled within the heart of Taiwan, lies the indigenous village of Smangus. Here, a tight-knit community of about 200 Atayal people is gearing up for what they describe as a “big deal” ~ the upcoming presidential election. Their morning meetings in a weatherboard hut, overlooking towering peaks, reflect a community deeply invested in the democratic process. The January 13 election, Taiwan’s eighth since the end of martial law, is distinguished not only by the looming shadow of China but by a chorus of domestic concerns.

Economic anxieties, particularly low wages and exorbitant housing costs, have taken centre stage in a campaign ostensibly dominated by the spectre of Chinese annexation. As current President Tsai Ing-wen, reaches the end of her term limits, candidates grapple with the dual challenge of addressing both geopolitical tensions and the palpable struggles of everyday Taiwanese. Smangus, a community with its own polling station since 2008, speaks a unique political language. Their priorities transcend the economic struggles faced by many Taiwanese. Eldercare, road improvements, and Indigenous land rights are their focal points, emphasising a desire for a leader with a global perspective and a commitment to Taiwanese identity.

For them, the Presidential election is not just about policies. It’s about preserving the essence of their hard-won democracy. Yet, in the varied landscapes of Taiwan’s political spectrum, a common thread emerges ~ corruption. In a nation where political corruption has historically been a pivotal election issue, this campaign is no exception. Allegations, ranging from plagiarism to illegal housing structures, weave a complex web that blurs party lines.

The fight against corruption becomes a shared struggle, transcending party loyalties, as candidates aim to convince voters that they alone hold the key to a cleaner political landscape. Amidst these intricate dynamics, Miaoli, often humorously referred to as “Miaoli Nation,” stands as a microcosm of Taiwan’s political intricacies. A region where the Kuomintang (KMT) has held sway for 72 years, the prospect of change is met with scepticism. However, an independent candidate, Mr Tseng Wenhsueh, rallies against corruption and for political change, resonating with those yearning for a break from the status quo. The inertia of stability clashes with the promise of transformative change, creating a tension felt not just in Miaoli but echoed throughout the nation.

This election also exposes a generational shift. Young voters, constituting 16 per cent of the electorate, seem to be drifting away from the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), viewing it as an entrenched establishment. A 34-yearold at a KMT rally articulates a desire for frequent governmental changes, illustrating a broader sentiment that goes beyond party lines. As Smangus and the rest of Taiwan stand on the precipice of this consequential election, the choice extends beyond immediate economic concerns. It is a choice between continuity and change, a decision that echoes the resilience of a nation that enjoyed democracy later than some but is unwavering in its commitment to protect it.