UNESCO recognises kohl as intangible cultural heritage; what this means for tradition, beauty, culture

Kohl is not just another beauty trend. Last month, UNESCO officially recognised kohl as a “living heritage”. And, this isn’t just about makeup. It’s about culture, history, and identity rolled into a smudge of black around the eyes.

Kohl, known by many names, kajal in India, surma in parts of the Middle East, has been around for centuries. Its journey is fascinating. From North Africa and Arabian Peninsula to Persia and South Asia, kohl traveled along ancient trade routes carried by merchants, pilgrims, migrating communities. Over time it adapted to local tastes and materials. But its symbolic power remained intact.

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What’s particularly striking about kohl, note historians, is its continuity across communities, centuries, cultures. Very few cosmetic practices can boast such a rich, transregional history.

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And it wasn’t just about looking stylish. Traditionally kohl was handcrafted from natural ingredients galena (shiny mineral), antimony, soot, burnt plants and sometimes even crushed bones or stones. These depended on the region.

These materials were meticulously ground, washed, stored in ornate little containers. Applying kohl was intimate and almost ceremonial act. This passed from mother to daughter for generations.

Kohl as culture and resistance

In places marred by conflict, displacement, and siege, the making and wearing of kohl took on an even deeper meaning. In rural areas, among nomadic groups, and in cities like Gaza, kohl became a quiet act of cultural preservation.

While outsiders might see just a line around the eye, communities recognised it as a way to resist cultural erasure.

Fast forward to today, and kohl occupies a much more complicated space in the beauty world. Sure, it’s trendy. But the “kohl” you find in stores is often a far cry from its traditional version.

This is why UNESCO’s recognition matters so much. By officially documenting kohl as living cultural heritage, the organisation is giving it more than just a beauty stamp; it’s protecting the stories, practices, and traditions behind the product.

It also helps prevent flattening of kohl into a generic “ethnic” cosmetic putting the focus back on the communities who have nurtured it for generations.

Kajal in India: More than meets the eye

In India, story of kohl, more commonly called kajal, is little different but equally fascinating. Here kajal isn’t just for glam. It’s woven into medicine, ritual, and art.

In Hindu households, some people still apply small dots of kajal to ward off bad luck or the evil eye (nazar). Ayurvedic manufacturers often enrich it with medicinal herbs like camphor claiming benefits for eye health.

Kajal is also central to classical Indian dances like Bharatanatyam and Odissi. Dancers use it around their eyes elongating them to accentuate gestures, expressions, movements on stage. It’s a tool of storytelling as much as it is a cosmetic.

The homemade preparation of kajal is still believed to carry therapeutic properties. Many ingredients used in traditional recipes are part of Ayurveda and Siddha medicine systems.

What makes kohl truly special is how it has survived and even thrived despite modern challenges. Its story spans continents and centuries, linking rituals, protection, self-expression, health.

Kohl isn’t just cosmetic anymore. It’s history you can wear, medicine you can see, art you can express. All in one delicate, ceremonial line.