A Day in an Enchanting Coastal Town in Italy

Yesterday, I revisited Polignano a Mare, a quaint coastal town in the Puglia region of southern Italy. The train ride from Monopoli, where I am currently staying, took barely five minutes — yet it felt like being transported to another time, another place.
I had spent a few days here last year and was instantly smitten. Perched dramatically on limestone cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Polignano a Mare is rightly called one of the crown jewels of Puglia. Its beauty is disarming — the dazzling blue of the water, the whitewashed homes clinging to the cliffs, and the labyrinth of narrow, cobblestoned lanes that seem to lead both into its distant past and toward the living present.

The town’s charm lies in its glorious past. The ancient Greek settlers were the first to call this place home, followed by the Romans, who made it a thriving trading post. Over the centuries, Byzantines and Normans left their marks, each adding a new layer to its rich history. Even today, the historic center — with its arched doorways, flower-draped balconies, and panoramic terraces — bears eloquent witness to that enduring heritage.
Yet Polignano is no museum piece.

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Amid its timeworn alleys stand stylish cafés, restaurants, and boutiques humming with tourists who come to savor the views and the relaxed rhythm of coastal life. It is also the birthplace of the beloved Italian singer Domenico Modugno, whose statue near the sea stands arms outstretched, as if eternally embracing the town and the endless stream of visitors who grace its shores.
What makes Polignano unforgettable, though, is its ambience — a seamless blend of antiquity and modernity, where every breeze carries the tales of its rich history. Though it is a small, close-knit community, the spirit of the place feels universal — gently reminding us that beauty, like the sea below, knows no boundaries.

(The writer is Professor Emeritus, Loyola Marymount University, Los Angeles)