The first thing I noticed in Istanbul was the sound. Not the noise of traffic or the chatter of tourists, but the haunting call to prayer drifting across the city from distant minarets. Moments later, another call answered from a different mosque, then another and another, until the entire skyline seemed to come alive with a chorus that had echoed across these hills for centuries.
As I stood overlooking the Bosporus and watched ships move between Europe and Asia, I realized that Istanbul was unlike any other city I had ever visited. It is a place where history is not confined to museums and monuments. It is woven into everyday life, carried by the waters of the Bosporus, reflected in the great domes of its mosques, and heard in the music that fills its streets. Few cities have shaped world history as profoundly as Istanbul, and fewer still display that history so openly in everyday life. Straddling two continents, it has served as the capital of three great empires—the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman. The Bosporus is the city’s lifeline.
Ferries shuttle constantly between the two shores, carrying commuters, students, merchants, and visitors across one of the world’s most famous waterways. From the water, Istanbul presents a magnificent panorama of palaces, mosques, elegant mansions, and bustling neighborhoods climbing the surrounding hillsides. No matter where one stands in the city, the eye is inevitably drawn toward the skyline punctuated by soaring minarets and majestic domes. Dominating that skyline are the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, two of the most celebrated architectural masterpieces in the world. The Blue Mosque enchants visitors with its six graceful minarets and cascading domes.
Inside, thousands of exquisite blue Iznik tiles create an atmosphere of serenity and spiritual beauty. Sunlight filtering through stained-glass windows bathes the vast interior in a gentle glow. A short walk away stands Hagia Sophia, one of humanity’s most extraordinary monuments. Constructed in the sixth century as a cathedral, later transformed into a mosque, then a museum, and once again a mosque, it reflects the layered history of Istanbul itself. Equally impressive is Topkapi Palace, the opulent residence of Ottoman sultans who once ruled territories stretching across three continents. Walking through its courtyards and ornate chambers, one can almost hear the whispers of diplomats, viziers, and rulers whose decisions shaped history.
Yet the city’s greatest pleasures are not confined to its famous landmarks. The aroma of freshly grilled kebabs drifts through narrow streets lined with cafés and restaurants. Vendors tempt passersby with simit, the sesame-crusted bread rings that are a favorite local snack. Plates of succulent lamb, smoky eggplant, fragrant rice, and colorful meze arrive in endless succession. The sweetness of baklava pairs perfectly with strong Turkish coffee or a glass of tea served in elegant tulip-shaped glasses. As evening descends, another side of the city emerges.
Music spills from cafés, restaurants, and hidden courtyards tucked away in winding streets. Traditional Turkish melodies blend seamlessly with contemporary rhythms. The haunting notes of the ney flute seem particularly suited to Istanbul. That yearning finds its most mesmerizing expression in the ceremony of the Whirling Dervishes. Dressed in flowing white robes, the dancers slowly begin their sacred ritual. Watching them is a deeply moving experience that transcends language and culture. Long after I left Istanbul, its memories continued to linger.
I could still hear the call to prayer drifting across the evening sky. I could still see ferries gliding between Europe and Asia as the setting sun turned the water to gold. The aromas of Turkish coffee, grilled kebabs, and exotic spices seemed to follow me home. What stayed with me most, however, was not a particular mosque, palace, or meal. It was the spirit of a city that has spent centuries bringing different peoples, cultures, and traditions into conversation with one another. Whenever I think of Istanbul, I find myself drawn back to the waters of the Bosporus, watching two continents face one another across a narrow strait while sharing the same horizon. Few places have left such a lasting impression on me.
The writer is Professor Emeritus, Loyola Marymount University, Los Angeles