In an era where global fashion often blurs the line between appreciation and appropriation, the recent uproar over a luxury brand’s reinterpretation of Kolhapuri sandals serves as a timely reminder of how cultural heritage continues to be commodified without credit. These handcrafted leather sandals, rooted in the 12th-century artisanal traditions of Maharashtra and Karnataka, are not just footwear ~ they are repositories of culture, craftsmanship, and community identity. Yet, when Prada recently unveiled its version of open-toe braided sandals on an international runway, it conspicuously failed to acknowledge their Indian origin. The backlash that followed was not merely about fashion aesthetics; it was about respect, representation, and rightful recognition. At stake was not just an iconic design, but the dignity of the artisans who, for generations, have sustained its form and function with remarkable skill and modest reward.
Due Credit
Photo:X/BBC
That the brand eventually admitted the inspiration and offered to engage with Indian artisans and trade bodies is a welcome, if belated, gesture. But such acknowledgments, made after public criticism, often feel like damage control rather than genuine appreciation. This isn’t just about sandals ~ it is about narratives. When global fashion borrows from traditional cultures, it also inherits a responsibility to tell those stories truthfully and with respect. In a globalised market, where authenticity is both a selling point and a moral obligation, crediting the origin of a design should be foundational ~ not optional. Kolhapuri sandals are not mass-produced commodities churned out by mach i nes.
Each pair is the outcome of labour-intensive processes involving natural dyeing, hand-stitching, and an intuitive understanding of both material and climate. They’ve even earned Geographical Indication (GI) status ~ an official recognition that ties a product to a specific place and culture. Ignoring this lineage while slapping on a designer label and multiplying the price tag by hundreds is not innovation ~ it is exploitation that reeks of a neo-colonial mind-set. Unfortunately, this is not an isolated case. From the sari being rebranded as a “gown” on red carpets to the dupatta being passed off as a “Scan dinavian scarf,” there is a pattern of global fashion lifting brazenly from Indian traditions without offering context or credit. This is not mere oversight ~ it’s erasure. What is needed is a shift from performative recognition to structural change.
If global brands truly admire Indian designs, they must go beyond press statements. They must create frameworks for collaboration, equitable revenue sharing, and intellectual property protection. They must engage artisans not as invisible sources of inspiration but as rightful partners. Ironically, even amid the indignation, some artisans expressed pride that their work had reached a global stage. But pride without prosperity is a poor bargain. India’s rich craft traditions deserve more than fleeting attention ~ they deserve sustained respect and fair compensation. Cultural appreciation is not incompatible with global commerce. But it demands humility, transparency, and above all, integrity. Without that, what passes for style becomes little more than silent theft dressed up as luxury.