Finally, after many storms in the tea cup, we decided to follow the trails of Har ki Doon, supposedly the most picturesque trek in Uttarakhand. Located at a height of 3,500m from sea level, it is surrounded by snow-capped peaks. River Supin (locally called Tamosha) cuts through the vast green valley, which is looked over by Swargarohini Peak towards its west.

Unlike other treks in the Himalayas, this particular trek is mention worthy because of the magnificent vistas it offers – – it is a delight to those keen to see Himalayan flora and fauna. A walk through the evergreen forests of the Garhwal Himalayas is captivating and rejuvenating, especially for city slickers. The trail through the forest of maple, chestnut and pine trees, together with innumerable ferns and orchids, was simply breathtaking. River Supin flowed obediently, keeping to the left. The gushing sound of the burbling water, cutting through the rocks and boulders, poured into one’s ears as a continuous melody.

The actual trek started from Taluka via Ganghad, Osla, Seema, Kalkattiyadhar, finally reaching Har ki Doon or the Valley of Gods. It was a long trail of 27 kms through alpine forests and meadows but the trek falls in the category of “moderate” due to its long distance. That said it is enjoyable even for first timers. The trail is pleasantly undulating with a gradual gradient, which allows one to be at ease. Trekkers can stay in the tents at night and enjoy a magnificent starry night if the weather is clear.

The mountains stood silently in the background with a brooding presence. Suddenly, Swargarohini Peak appeared between the lofty heights over the valley far ahead. It took a while for the mist to thin out and then her crown could be seen encircled by snow like a wreath. Swargarohini is believed to have lured the Pandavas in The Mahabharata to choosing the trail for their journey towards heaven at the end of the Kurukshetra battle.

The aroma of the forest kept seeping inside. Fragrance of the Himalayan primroses filled the air with their sweet smell, which was attracting a swarm of bees. Himalayan locoweeds, marsh marigold, Himalayan daisies —each holding a sun at its centre —kept swaying their face all along the hilly trail. Sunrays, penetrating in beams through the foliage, drew ethereal patterns on the moss-laden path. Sudden showers made the walk even more challenging because the trail became foggy. It made the vista even more mysterious and luring.

One moved on to another range at Seema after crossing a cantilever bridge. Just after that the trail was precariously high where the gradient was almost perpendicular. It took a lot of effort and concentration during the climb. One small slip could have been fatal. It was challenging yet an awesome experience and accomplishment gave an immense sense of satisfaction.

The miles between Kalkattiyadhar and Har ki Doon was pleasant enough through forests of horse chestnut, mighty oaks and pines. Endless wild flowers kept one company all through, swinging their heads with vibrant colours. A sudden encounter with local school-going children, along with their mothers, was quite welcome.Whatever meagre food was there in the backpacks was distributed among them.

The beautiful Charota waterfalls, on the way, were a delight for weary travellers and a resting point too. The blue tents pitched on the bank gave relief to trekkers after a long and tiring day. The place was encircled by snowcovered peaks all round — Hatta Parvat, Har ki Doon peak and Swargarohini Peak could be seen in the soft diffused light of the late afternoon.

The river water, just in front of the tents, seemed to be like floating glass and it was ice cold. Dusk has already set in down in the valley but the encircling peaks still reflected the golden hue of the sun. Shepherds with their herds, from far away bends, were on their way home. A pair of white capped water redstart was still pecking at their feast on the river bank. And a cold, chilly breeze was gaining momentum as the sun was ready to bid goodbye for the day.

From Har ki Doon, one can advance further towards Jaundhar glacier or else enjoy the solitude of the valley. A three-km trek can also take one to the beautiful Morinda Lake, located at a height of 15,000 ft. The trail would lead one through wonderful blooming mauve rhododendrons. On reaching the destination, one can see crystal clear green waters and the rocky trail leading towards Borasu pass. It was a trek of eight days, which can be customised. Since we did not have any targets to fulfill, the focus was on enjoying the mountains. Back in the plains, memories of a gurgling rivulet, the wet smell of the forest and silvery droplets lingering on leaves, kept rushing back.